The radiator caps serve a critical purpose in operating your vehicle’s cooling system by ensuring that coolant does not escape and that you keep the coolant inside the radiator at the proper pressure. If the radiator is missing coolant, the engine temperature will rise dramatically, causing the engine check light to illuminate, alerting that there is a problem that you need to address before the car is completely damaged. It might restrict the flow and cause the radiator to clog. If there is contamination, this tint can shift to a thick brown-like color. Vehicle coolants are generally green, yellow, or pink. (Read Why Does My Temperature Gauge Go Up And Down) Coolant discoloration As the heated fluid flows, releasing hot air into the vehicle. When the car’s heater ceases to function, it’s a warning that there isn’t enough coolant in the radiator-the heater, powered by the heated fluid that circulates within the core. The coolant level in the radiator drops when it is punctured or entirely damaged, causing the machine to overheat because there is no coolant to absorb the heat. It might be coming from the radiator or the hoses. Overheating the machine will emit smoke and may cause the car to break down unexpectedly. Because of the engine’s poor performance, this issue might severely limit the vehicle’s functionality. It could be because of a broken radiator, a dysfunctional thermostat, or other problems. Hopefully tomorrow when I drive it again and it warms up, it should be good to go.When there is no coolant in the radiator, but the reservoir tank is full, what are the indications? The engine will start to overheat as a result of this If I had to guess, I think the float was put in upside down. I tried this on both laying on their side in the same position. The OE, the magnet grabbed the float all the way in at the tippy top, but on the behr one it caught the magnet right when I put the magnet into where the sensor goes. I actually took my telescoping magnet thingy and put it in both expansion tanks. I still have to wait for it to cool overnight and to see if it comes on during warm up (which is what the other one did) but so far no issues. Sure enough, original tank and the light never came on. It only had about 9k miles on it but I was being paranoid. I actually noticed the light is kind of buffered and it takes a while for it to turn on/off unless you cycle the ignition.Īnyway, I pretty much narrowed it down to the tank and pulled the behr one and put the OE one I originally had in there back. I put the original sensor back on and put a magnet up to it. But not sure if this would cause the light to always be on or just sometimes. What else can I check? Is the expansion tank itself bad?! I've heard about after market expansion tanks being assembled with the float upside down. I can't have TWO bad OE sensors?! And the car runs totally fine even with the insane heat. I even swapped the sensor from the washer and it just stays on constantly. When I do that the light never turns off. I tried swapping the OE coolant sensor from the tank that was in before. It's off when I start the car, when it's warming up, it comes on and stay so on until the car is at operating temperature. So my question is this, I keep getting the damn low coolant light! Ive checked it a hundred times and it's never low. I even watched the obd II temp like a hawk and it is usually around 195, never above 204. Ever since then I've been driving it around and the needle's never moved past middle, even with the insane 115 deg weather we're having in so cal this weekend. Parked it, let it fully cool down, then opened it up again and it was a little low so I topped it off. I drove it around to full temp, needle never went above middle. So much liquid came out of the bleed hole that no bubbles were left because I put in so much extra coolant vs water. so I put 1/2 gal of pure bmw coolant to counteract the dilution and the excess all came out of the bleed screw. I had put in 1 gal of water and nearly 1 gal of 50/50 mix before I realized it was 50/50. I had it up on jackstands (front only), turned car to on (but not started), set hvac to 91 and lowest fan setting, opened bleed screw and took it off, opened expansion tank and slowly filled in coolant and water until it was full. I broke the little hot/cool label on it yanking it out and just decided to replace it along with everything else, including radiator, water pump, 5 hoses, lower temp sensor. It already had a pretty new expansion tank that is OE. So I redid my entire cooling system on Monday.
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